With Eastern Europeans, it is not quite racism, as it is with Arabs or Africans, but rather a deep-seated reflex not to see foreigners as equals. Tarkovsky, Tchaikovsky, Dostoevsky – yes, yes, yes. But you want us to hire you, a foreigner? Sorry, you no French background, no French résumé, such limited French experience.
“The French say, ‘we love different accents,’” says Moskvina. “That is, until they have to work with you. One actor friend with whom I would talk for hours in the café told me: ‘I would not work with you – what if I did not understand what you were saying?’”
Kataev claims that France is being ruined by leftist ideology. But the real problem is petty-bourgeois conservatism and snobbery. They are ruining us first of all.
Still, Denis’s strategy might work – provided you do not try to climb the hard way, provided your first stop is the Élysée Palace. “In France, personal relationships are everything,” says Moskvina. “If you message a stranger about work, he will not reply. But go have a drink and a chat with him, tomorrow you will hear back.”
HousingDenis says: “Paris is the Left Bank.”
“My neighborhood, Château Rouge, is the Paris I imagined as a child,” says Chuprinskaya. “A shabby poverty and dusty luxury. Remember the
cour des miracles from
Angélique by
Anne and Serge Golon? I live in such a courtyard. And I feel like Angélique at the very bottom of life.”
Chuprinskaya is my neighbor in Château Rouge. Our 18th arrondissement is a living demonstration of the failure of the republican model of integration. Boulevard Barbès marks the dividing line between bourgeois and immigrant Paris.
To the right are the famous steps of Montmartre, vintage boutiques, flower stands, souvenir shops, tourists and the most expensive real estate in Paris (EUR 15,000 per square meter on Avenue Junot and Rue Lepic). To the left is the Dijon market, where pig heads sit on the counters, alongside cigarette sellers in flip-flops outside the metro, women carrying babies on their backs and homeless people lying on mattresses with signs that read: “I want to eat.”
Which side am I on?
By race and class I should be on the right side; by documents and opportunities on the left. In truth, I have yet to find any place for myself in Paris.
My Parisian nights are filled with many voices and accents: sometimes bar patrons shouting over football, sometimes Cameroonians fighting, sometimes crazy homeless people getting restless. At five in the morning, the garbage truck rolls in, turning over bins with a crash of bottles loud enough to split eardrums.
In Paris, to rent an apartment, your salary must be at least three times the rent. Blik has moved 11 times. Esther Bol, six. She is a playwright whose works were staged before the war at the Chekhov Moscow Art Theater, the Taganka, the Bolshoi Drama Theater and the Alexandrinsky.
“I cannot rent a place officially – I have to prove that my [economic] situation is stable. And it is not,” says Bol. At one point, she had no apartment and ended up in a hostel. “It was scary. There was a [mentally] sick person in the room who screamed terribly, hit himself and spewed curses. I sat in the lobby until morning.”
Moskvina recalls how she once fell behind on her electricity bill, and an employee of the national electricity provider EDF showed up at her door with giant metal shears to cut the line.
Another feature of Parisian emigrant life is the stories of how Ukrainian refugees are refused temporary housing if they have pets, and sometimes temporary social protection altogether. How they are evicted from the la Villette refugee center (“you came at an inopportune time”) and spend the night under bridges or on benches. How aggressive the French police are toward immigrants.
“Does it make you angry that someone else’s life is carefree?” Esther Bol asks. “No, it does not.
No, we – who are living through the deep pain of emigration and the even deeper pain of the war and the bombing of Ukraine – do not envy those who are doing well.
We just live in Paris, not in a fairy tale.